Tech Tips
Here you will find some technical information we
thought might be useful
NOX Emission Test Failures:
Quite often a failure of the EGR valve system will cause high NOX. It can be due to an EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve failure (the diaphragm ruptured, etc), blocked EGR passages in the intake manifold or cylinder head, a stuck valve, bad vacuum hoses to the valve or the EGR vacuum control solenoid, faulty wiring to the solenoid to name a few. Sometimes the computer itself fails to control the valve (computer replacement required.) Get a manual for the car and follow the procedure for checking diagnostic codes associated with EGR problems. If your EGR system is not functioning, then you will likely not pass the NOX part of the test.
The ignition timing, if settable, should be set at specifications, and made sure that it is not advanced beyond specifications.
If it is recommended that your vehicle uses premium fuel, be sure to use it! Be sure to use the fuel recommended for your vehicle; however, if your vehicle has excessive carbon buildup causing higher compression than normal which can make excessive "gas ping", then you can try this: change the fuel to high test fuel if normally it is supposed to use low test fuel. What this does is help prevent detonation (ping, which causes high temperature burning that makes NOX high) so that there could be a reduction in oxides of nitrogen (NOX.)
Catalytic converters can become less effective over time or if they have been subjected to harsh use (too rich air/fuel ratio).
Any vehicle should have a good and correct thermostat in it; however, if the vehicle is overheating, this may contribute to higher NOX.
Have you ever told yourself "I'm glad I know this." Then read the following tip and verify that you know this information. If you know this information, then you will save yourself money and battery troubles.
Battery Charging Tips:
Failure to follow this tip is why many people purchase spring/summer use vehicle batteries EVERY YEAR due to a lack of proper charging and resultant permanent sulfation damage that destroys the battery.
After a battery is used for electromotive use (trolling motors, RV interior lights, boat marker lights, playing radios and use of electrical accessories, etc.) - in other words any use that discharges the battery without any charging system or insufficient charging system, it is BEST to charge the battery to full charge right away - don't wait even a week. Furthermore, it is BEST not to deep cycle the battery (discharge it fully or near fully). Deep discharging ANY lead-acid, gel, or AGM type batteries will REDUCE the number of cycles it can have over its life. Use of MANUAL battery chargers is OK if the battery is not left on charge too long causing an overcharging situation. Automatic battery chargers are best in that they will not damage the battery due to overcharging if left on the charger for a few days. However, do not leave a battery on an automatic battery charger for more than a few days. Automatic battery chargers that have a COMPLETE CUTOFF feature are the safest battery chargers to use. They generally can be left on the battery indefinitely.
Definitions:
AGM=Absorbed Glass Mat – the electrolyte (acid) is absorbed into the cell separator and does not have any extra acid flooding the rest of the cell, hence it can’t leak or spill. Benefit: it can’t spill, with almost no corrosion possible. Requires no water maintenance. Drawbacks: Does not tolerate overcharging well without overheating – the heat generated in the overcharged cell can not work its way out of the battery well because the plates are not flooded with acid that would otherwise allow this heat transfer to occur.
Gel Battery – The electrolyte is a gel and it clings to the plate and separator that it is on. Drawbacks / Benefits: essentially the same as with the AGM battery.
Deep Cycle – this type of battery is designed for better charge cycling toleration with less damage/harm to the battery. The plates are made thicker and with a bit more dense active material pasted to the plates, hence the battery has a fewer number and thicker plates, but usually is heavier in weight. Cranking ability is not too bad, but a top quality automotive type/style battery will have more cranking ability because the plates in it are thinner making more of them per cell with a resultant greater surface area exposed to the electrolyte. However the automotive battery will not tolerate deep cycle use much at all without permanent damage to it.
Flooded Cell Battery – a battery that has older technology in that the battery cells are flooded with acid. Some flooded cell batteries are maintenance free which use a slightly different lead alloy plate grid that gives low gassing during charging and discharging which gives low water loss, and a maintenance type flooded cell battery which has a antimony/lead alloy plate grid which does gas and has more water use. Benefits: The maintenance free type give the durability of a flooded cell battery with the advantage of no maintenance and low possibility of external corrosion of surrounding items (cables, etc.); the antimony/lead alloy grid battery (water service required) are durable and still are of the best quality deep cycle lead acid batteries made today like as used in electric forklifts, and long term standby batteries to mention a few. Drawbacks: The service required type (antimony/lead grid) requires water maintenance and can get messy in terms of corrosion problems.
Manual Battery Charger – a battery charger that has no voltage control designed into it to protect the battery from overcharging. Personal monitoring of the charging of these are required, but they can do a good job of charging.
More tips to follow soon...